How to stop my dog barking at other dogs when on lead

How-to-stop-my-dog-barking-at-other-dogs-when-on-leadYour dog or puppy may gain unwanted habits overtime due to their exposure to other k9’s. This is natural and you should be prepared to be ready to expect new behavioral traits when walking your dog in new places like the park or when taking a different route down a new a road.

If your dog starts to bark at other dogs when taking him/her out for walk on a leash first thing you shouldn’t do is no shaking of pennies in a can, or forcing the dog into a submissive position, or any of that.

It is most likely your dog has what is known as fear-aggression. It’s different from “regular” aggression because, obviously, of fear. The last thing you want to do is scare your dog even more, or associate other dogs with even more negative reactions.

When you go for walks, bring a small bag of treats with you in your pocket. When you see another dog coming, RELAX. Don’t tighten your hold on the leash, shorten the leash or even act nervous. Your dog will be able to feel you tense up. I know you’re going to be worried thinking “oh no, here it comes” but don’t even think about it. Roll your shoulders back and forth, take a deep breath.

When your dog DETECTS the other dog (not before, and not after she has gone into the barking fit) this is when you must take action. Get her attention as quickly as you can. Basically, you need to break her mind off that “mental state” where she is fixated on the other dog. You can try getting her attention by waving the treats in her face, by making high-pitched noises and jumping up and down, by saying her name, or anything that works. (You’ll look pretty stupid, but just do whatever you’re prepared to do.)

The MINUTE she looks to you, give her the treat, pet and praise. Then, immediately turn and walk away from the other dog. Don’t bring her any closer.

Gradually, you will be able to decrease the distance from which the dog is to you before your terrier starts going nuts. I have been working with a fear-aggressive dog in the last few months. Two months ago, she would start barking her head off a 50 metres away from the dog. Now, she is okay with dogs as long as they are on the other side of the street. Soon she will be able to walk right past dogs on the same side of the street with no trouble at all.

6 Most Common Dog Health Problems

Our dogs are faithful companions, and they depend on us for good care. To help your canine friend live a healthy life, you should know some of the most common dog health problems dogs face, their signs, and what you can do about them.

Dogs and Ear Infections

Ear infections are a common canine health problem, and they can be caused by allergies, yeast, ear mites, bacteria, hair growth deep in the ear canal, and more. Symptoms your dog may have with an ear infection include:

  • Head shaking or head tilting
  • Ear odor
  • Vigorous scratching
  • Lack of balance
  • Unusual back-and-forth eye movements
  • Redness of the ear canal
  • Swelling of the outer portion of the ear
  • Brown, yellow, or bloody discharge

Always take your dog to the veterinarian if you think he has an ear infection. In most cases, cleaning and medicating the ear canal will quickly clear up an infection. However, surgery can be needed for chronic infections or if forceful head shaking results in the rupture of a vessel within the outer part of the ear.

Dogs and Worms

Tapeworms, roundworms, hookworms, and whipworms are common internal parasites in dogs. And although any worm infestation can make your pooch uncomfortable, some, like hookworms, can be fatal in puppies. Signs your dog may have worms include:

  • Diarrhea (may be bloody)
  • Weight loss
  • A change in appetite
  • A rough, dry coat
  • Scooting on his bottom
  • Vomiting (with roundworms in particular)
  • An overall poor appearance

The best way to diagnose a worm problem is with a visit to the vet. Treatment depends on which type of worm your dog has, but generally includes an oral medication and may require follow-up. Don’t try treating worms yourself: A medication that kills roundworms, for example, doesn’t kill tapeworms.

When Fleas Find Your Dog

It takes just three weeks for one flea to turn into an infestation of 1,000 biting bugs. A very common canine health problem, fleas are easy for your dog to pick up, but they’re also easy to treat. Signs your dog may have fleas include:

  • Excessive scratching, licking, or biting at the skin
  • Hair loss
  • Hot spots
  • Allergic dermatitis (allergic response caused by contact)
  • Tapeworms (which are carried by fleas)
  • Flea dirt (looks like small black dots) against your dog’s skin

Untreated, fleas not only make your dog intensely uncomfortable, they can also cause allergic reactions, infections, and even lead to anemia from blood loss.

Talk to your vet about the right flea medicine for your dog, which may include collars, oral medicine, shampoos, sprays, or topical liquids.

How to Help Hot Spots in Your Dog

They’re commonly known as hot spots, but the medical term for those bare, inflamed, red areas you often see on dogs is acute moist dermatitis — a bacterial skin infection. Anything that irritates your dog’s skin enough to make him scratch or chew can lead to the pain and itch of hot spots, which, if left untreated, can quickly grow larger.

A hot spot’s location can help your vet diagnose its cause. Fleas, for example, may be the source of a hip hot spot, while a hot spot at the ear might point to ear problems.

Treating hot spots may involve shaving and cleaning the irritated area, antibiotics, anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS), steroids, or topical medications, depending on how bad the hot spots are, and how much pain your pooch is in.

Common Dog Health Problem: Vomiting

Vomiting is a common dog health problem, with dozens of possible causes, from infection or intestinal parasites to pancreatitis, kidney failure, heatstroke, or poisoning.

Symptoms are basic: abdominal heaving and drooling caused by nausea. If your dog also has diarrhea, blood in the vomit, seems lethargic, continues vomiting, or can’t hold down liquids, contact your vet right away to prevent life-threatening dehydration.

Treatment depends on what’s causing a dog’s distress, and may include fluid therapy, drugs to control vomiting, and homemade foods like well-cooked skinless chicken, boiled potatoes, and rice.

Doggy Diarrhea

Diarrhea in dogs, as with vomiting, can have lots of causes, including stress, infections like parvo virus, intestinal parasites, and food problems.

Diarrhea symptoms are pretty obvious — look for loose, watery, or liquid stool.

Because diarrhea can easily lead to dehydration, be sure your dog has plenty of clean water available, then take your pooch to the vet if the diarrhea persists for more than a day, or immediately if there’s also fever, lethargy, vomiting, dark or bloody stools, or loss of appetite.


Teach Your Dog to Come When Called, No Matter What!

Sometimes I think I am a Golden Retriever, everything is exciting to me, everything is fun, everything should be a game and everything is important, but I guess I am blonde.

I giggle when I look back at my dog training videos and my articles because to me EVERYTHING is critical!  Teaching your dog to come, to leave it, crate training, leash training everything is vital to you and your dog.  And, to be honest, it really is.  All dog training and the victory over behavior problems ensures that you keep your dog and that you both remain happy.

But, Teaching Your Dog To Come Is The Most Important
Dog Obedience Command Every Dog Should Know

Does Your Dog Come When Called?

So what happens if your dog is off leash, he sees a bunny or a deer and goes chasing after it?  Will he leave that distraction and come to you when you call him?  What if there is a car coming?

Recently a good friend lost his world champion obedience dog because he was chasing deer and was blindsided by a car.  I am still devastated for them both.  It can certainly happen to anyone who’s dog is off leash, and I can only hope and train hard and pray it never happens to me or my dogs.

How To Teach Your Dog To Come When You Call


You HAVE to train, train, train for a good recall!  This is not something to let slack or ignore, this is THE MOST IMPORTANT thing you will ever do!  Your dog’s life may sometime depend on this exact command!

NEVER, ever call your dog when he is in trouble, your mad or if you are going to do something bad to him!  His name and the word “come” should never mean something bad.  So if he is in trouble go and get him.  If you are going to crate him or trim his nails, go to him, but do not call him.

You never want your dog’s name or come to = something bad or even slightly negative.  Imagine your dog and the bunnies…if “COME” means sometimes he goes in his crate, then there is NO WAY he is leaving those bunnies to come to you!

Would you come to YOU if you were mad or sounded that angry?

When You Call Your Dog It Should Mean FUN, FOOD, and PARTIES!

Does your dog drop everything and run to you when he hears the cookie jar rattle?  When you whisper “cookie” would he wake up from a dead sleep to rush to your side?  Why is it that he listens so well to the rattle of the treat bag or a word that means treat?

Because with 100% reliability you are going to give him a treat!  How often do you get into the dog biscuits but then don’t give him one?  Or ask him if he wants a cookie only to give him nothing?  Chances are you don’t.  Chances are you reward him and so he is familiar with the reward that is tied to the sound or the word.  If these things were not paired with something good or a treat, he would stop coming and they would stop being meaningful cues.

You must make sure that your command to “come” = something meaningful and good almost 100%  of the time!

Pair the word come with treats, with games and with jackpots of chicken breast and other wonderful things.  Don’t call your dog and then take for granted the fact that he actually came to you.  And, just know that your praise is never going to be as exciting or as motivating as a scuttling or taunting squirrel.  However the knowledge that FOR SURE you are going to be rewarded and you might get some chicken breast is often worth the gamble for your dog!

Look at it from his perspective and stop comparing him to “Lassie”.  Dogs want to fulfill their own needs, what is important is to pair what he likes with what you want!

My favorite way to teach my dog to come is to play hide and seek at home.  Games are FUN!  I don’t care if you are 80 or 20 or if you do or don’t have kids at home.  You need to PLAY with your dog in order to teach him you are fun!  Just like you play with your children or grandchildren; sometimes you have to step out of your comfort zone because it is important for the dog or the child!

Have someone (your spouse, friend or your child) hold your dog’s collar as you tease him with some treats and dash away to hide.  First hide in easy to find places and as he gets better you can truly “hide” and make him find you behind doors, in his crate or other silly places.  As you call him praise him, this is critical even though you can’t see him coming you must assume that he is scampering after you so continue your praise.

“Fury COME, good girl, good girl, Come, good girl” until she gets to me.

“Fury COME!”  just isn’t motivating or exciting and she is likely to get bored and stop coming.  I have to motivate her to me and make it FUN!  The teasing and dashing is also important.  Just showing your dog a treat and sauntering off, is boring.

Which would you prefer?  Now which would you prefer if you were 5?  Remember your dog has the mentality of a child and needs fun and games!

Once he is finding you with exhilarating excitement in your home, all over your home, in funny places (yes I think dogs have a sense of humor), it is time to move this game outside.

Get a long line of 25 or 50 feet and play the same game; dashing behind trees and bushes.  Hide up inside trees or underneath things like your car; make this game the most fun thing your dog has ever done!    This imprinting of FUN, FUN, FUN along with reliable treats means your dog will be more likely to automatically leave the bunny, squirrel or deer to rush to your side when you call him!

It isn’t enough to teach this or play this once or twice, you MUST continue to play this game throughout your dog’s life.  Once it is imprinted and he is enjoying it, you can play it less but play it occasionally to keep it sharp and reliable.  If you notice him not coming to you when called go back to making it FUN and playing!

What Not to Do?


Don’t call your dog when he is in trouble or you’re going to do something negative to him.  I know I said it before but it begs to be repeated!  This will RUIN this command’s reliability!

Don’t be boring!  If you are boring your dog is less likely to listen!!  Dogs often mirror our behavior so the more excited and animated you are the more likely your dog will be to listen and enjoy himself.  Even if it is out of your comfort zone, get animated and have fun!

NEVER, EVER call your dog if you think he won’t come and you have no physical control of him (unless it is an emergency).

If your dog ignores you don’t give him the opportunity to ignore your commands!  This goes for any command but especially the COME command.  If your dog ignores you and doesn’t come, this means the command means NOTHING to your dog and nothing happens to him to make him come.

The more often you call him and he ignores you, the more the command loses its meaning and the less likely he is to ever come.

Instead, put him on a leash and work on the command by playing games OR at least put him on a leash so that if he ignores you, you can then make him listen by reeling him in!

You may have to slowly work on the command so that he listens off leash in a safe area like your yard, or a fenced in area.  When he doesn’t listen go to him, clip on the leash and encourage him to listen to you by restricting his ability to run away and by encouraging him with treats, toys and fun.

It is much easier to teach him this is fun, than to rely on force!

As always have as much fun as possible, this is what bonds you to your dog and your dog to you!  But work hard so that, if that moment comes and your dog’s life hangs in the balance he has a desire to play and to please you and leave any distraction behind!


Stop Your Dog From Jumping Up On People

Dogs jumping up on people is at best an embarrassing, annoying habit and at worst a danger for all involved.

What starts out as a cute habit in young puppies often escalates into a big problem that can be very difficult to correct. If you can’t stand your much loved dog jumping on you, just imagine what visitors to your home must think?

Dog Jumping Up – Annoying:

Your dog jumps all over you every time you come home, on visitors to your home or just when you’ve put on freshly cleaned and ironed pants!

Dog Jumping Up – Dangerous:

Any small child or elderly person who crosses path with your dog. Depending on the size of your dog, anyone could be in danger of being knocked off their feet.


Why Do Our Dogs Jump Up On People?

  1. Excitement, they’re just showing you that they are happy to see you.
  2. Your dog could be seeking your attention and has been rewarded with it by jumping up in the past.
  3. To assert dominance over you or guests. This is a rare one but can happen.

General Tips For Correcting Dog Behavior Problems – Jumping Up

Always keep in mind that your dog doesn’t understand that the jumping up behavior is “inappropriate”. It’s up to you to clearly communicate this to your dog.

  • Start as early as you can. It’s much easier to prevent behavior problems such as dogs jumping on people, than to correct ingrained existing habits.
  • Punishing or hitting a dog for jumping up just doesn’t make sense and will never work. Your goal, and your best chance of stopping your dog from jumping up is to clearly communicate that jumping up is always an unacceptable behavior.
  • Never reward a dog that jumps up on people by giving them the attention they are seeking. Rewarded behavior is reinforced behavior, meaning it will become more common.
  • You have to send a consistent message to your dog in all circumstances. Make it simple for your dog and eliminate any confusion. This means that everybody who comes into contact with your dog has to reinforce the same message. It’s pointless and unfair if you give your dog a cuddle and attention when he jumps up on you, but then yell at him when he jumps up on a delivery man.
  • Don’t give your dog what he/she wants (attention) every time he jumps up and you’ll find the behavior decreases.

How To Stop Your Dog From Jumping Up

Depending on what stage you’re at with the jumping up problem, you should find one of these training techniques will do the trick. In most cases you will see some positive results in a matter of days. These are my favorite methods which I have successfully used to stop my dogs from jumping:

  • When you see that your dog is ready to launch up at you, turn your body away from him. This will make your dog miss you, or at the very least deflect him off you. During this process don’t make any eye contact with your dog and don’t say a thing. Ignore your dog and make it clear to him that when he jumps he gets nothing from you.When your dog has settled down and stops jumping, you then initiate some contact with him. Get down to his level and lavish him with praise and a nice scratch behind the ear. If you are consistent and persistent with this method, your dog will soon learn that staying on all four legs is a much better alternative!
  • The next method is the one I prefer to use with my dogs. In situations where your dog is excitable and prone to jumping up, give him something else to do. In these  situations I instruct my dogs to “sit” – this is sometimes referred to as “alternate behavior training”.So instead of jumping around like lunatics, my dogs sit patiently awaiting my attention (which I always reward them with). This is the dog obedience training guide I follow when training my dogs – dog training membership site.
  • Many dog trainers use and recommend correcting jumping up problems with a pinch collar (sometimes called a prong collar). This technique is most suitable for bigger, strong willed breeds like German Shepherds and Rottweilers. The key is to leave the pinch collar on whenever you are around your dog and have a short leash attached to it. At the moment your dog jumps, give a short sharp snap downwards on the leash. This tightens the collar and creates a negative association to your dog. It is said to replicate the correction that dogs use between themselves. Never pull on the leash for more than a second or two, and never hurt your dog. When used the right way the pinch collar should not leave a mark on your dogs neck. Your dog will learn very quickly that when he jumps up on people, it will be an unpleasant experience. I believe this is an extreme method and would only consider it as a last resort for a dog who is jumping up dangerously.

The good thing about jumping up problems in dogs is that they are usually an easy fix. As long as you are determined to correct the problem and follow the above training techniques consistently you should be on the right track.


Pulling On The Leash

Leash issues are a huge problem for the dog-owning public and a leading culprit for why so many otherwise healthy dogs are doomed to life (or usually more accurately, an early death) in animal shelters. Whether it’s simple leash-pulling or more significant leash reactivity and leash aggression, the primary thing to keep in mind is that these issues are almost always preventable and manageable when using positive training methods.

Contrary to popular belief, dogs do not pull on the leash while being walked because they want to be pack leader, top dog, alpha or dominant over their human. There is a much simpler explanation that does not give credence to the myth that dogs are on a quest for world domination!

Dogs love to be outside, and the walk is a stimulating and exciting part of their day, so the desire to push ahead is very strong. Humans do not make ideal walking partners since a dog’s natural and comfortable walking pace is much faster than ours. Having to walk calmly by a person’s side when the only thing a dog really wants to do is run and investigate his environment requires a degree of impulse control that can be very difficult for some dogs to utilize.

That being said, all dogs need to be taught how to walk on a leash in a positive way without pain or discomfort so that a walk becomes enjoyable for everyone.

How To Stop Your Dog From Pulling On Leash:

Loose leash walking – Outside
  • If you are overpowered by your dog’s pulling and cannot start the teaching process for fear of being pulled over, then there are humane equipment solutions to help modify the pulling while you teach your dog to walk appropriately.
  • A chest-led harness is a perfect training aid, as it takes pressure off a dog’s sensitive neck by distributing the pressure more evenly around the body. When the leash is attached to a ring located on the chest strap and your dog pulls, the harness will turn his body around rather than allowing him to go forward. I recommend this kind of harness for anyone who needs extra help, as safety has to come first.
  • Leash pulling is often successful for the dog because the person inadvertently reinforces the pulling by allowing their dog to get to where he wants to go when he pulls. But you can change this picture by changing the consequence for your dog.
  • When he pulls, immediately stop and stand completely still until the leash relaxes, either by your dog taking a step back or turning around to give you focus. When the leash is nicely relaxed, proceed on your walk. Repeat this as necessary.
  • If you find this technique too slow you can try the reverse direction method. When your dog pulls, issue a ‘Let’s Go’ cue, turn away from him and walk off in the other direction, without jerking on the leash.
  • You can avoid yanking by motivating your dog to follow you with an excited voice to get his attention. When he is following you and the leash is relaxed, turn back and continue on your way. It might take a few turns but your vocal cues and body language will make it clear that pulling will not be reinforced with forward movement, but walking calmly by your side or even slightly in front of you on a loose leash will allow your dog to get to where he wants to go.
  • You can also reinforce your dog’s decision to walk close to you by giving him a motivating reward when he is by your side.
  • Once your dog is listening to you more, you can vary the picture even more by becoming unpredictable yourself. This means your dog has to listen to you at all times because he never knows when you are going to turn or where you are going to go next. Instead of turning away from him when you give the let’s go cue, reverse direction by turning towards him. You can turn in a circle or do a figure of eight. Any of these variations will get your dog’s attention. Do not forget to praise him for complying, because the better you make him feel walking close to you, the more he will chose to do so.


Are You Making These 10 Training Mistakes?

Ten common mistakes and how to avoid them

You would think that after all this time in history, one might think that dog training would become easier or even almost second nature to humans. However humans have a tendency to fall into bad habits themselves and can ruin a relationship between the dog and the owner. usually small mistakes do not have much on a resilient dog, however more serious mistakes can cause many years of stress and heartache, not to mention frustration. This article is therefore aimed at pointing out the top 10 mistakes that dog owners make, which could be improved upon with some helpful tips. This points are strictly to do with training technique and do not take into account socialization or exercise.


1. You are not training your dog enough

Most of us are teaching basic behaviours and routines to our dogs. However when the relationship stabilizes, we quite often allow our dogs to go on auto-pilot mode. Consequently, response times for important key behaviours can get worse. Quite often a dog won’t even respond. This degradation is a result of a lack of practice; if you play tennis only once a year, you’re going to be terrible at it, right?

So instead of “training and forgetting,” keep your dog’s develped behaviours sharp by working them now and then randomly and regularly, several times a day. Try different commands ike “Sit” for dinner,  “down” at the dog park, “wait” at doors; be unpredictable and spontaneous. Then, every month, teach a new additional behaviour, a trick will help to keep your pet’s mind and motivation up. The larger your pet’s skill set of behaviours, the smarter he/she gets, and the more important you become.


2.You are repeating commands too often

This is a common issue, especially among new owners with challenging puppys. The dog owner has taught a behaviour such as “sit” however, due to distractions, confusion, or bad technique on the dog’s part, the pet doesn’t  respond. The dog owner then asks repeatedly until and after the sixth or seventh attempt the dog finally halfheartedly sits down. This stalling becomes a learned behaviour, and one that is very hard to break.

This often happends with behaviours that have not been fully proofed, or with a that dog doesn’t particularly like to perform. For instance, headstrong dogs, hate to lie down, because it is an admission of deference. Timid dogs also try to resist lying down, a position they might feel too unsafe.

When we teach “sit” I do so as if it’s a fun trick; we treat the reward at first, praise, then work it into other locations, reducing the treat rewards along the way while increasing praise. We make sitting, coming, or lying down when called the greatest things to do.

Once you are happy and sure a dog knows a particular behaviour, ask only once! If the dog ignores you, it is either because you haven’t taught it properly, or the puppy is distracted or simply rebellious. Take your dog to a quiet spot and ask again; if he/she still doesn’t respond, go back to basics and re-teach, and avoid the mistake of asking too many times, or of making the behaviour appear to be dreary or unbeneficial. If you suspect your puppy is simply blowing you off, do not be afraid to show your disappointment. Do this by saying in a convincing tone: “No; sit.”

Another tip; after asking once without response, try waiting a moment, then while looking your dog square in the eye and moving in a bit closer. Mostly this will be enough to get your dog to listen. Then you should praise!


3. Your training sessions run too short or too long

Trying to teach new behaviours to a dog is a process of evolution, not revolution. The secret here is in knowing that it is usually going to take multiple sessions to perfect a new behaviour.

The time you spend on a training session should reflect some positive results. As soon as you attain some obvious level of success, you should reward and then quit. Do not carry on and on, as you will likely bore your dog, and actually force him/her to be conditioned to become disinterested in the new behaviour. Also, don’t end a session until there is some evidence of success, even if it is a moment of focus or an attempt by your dog to try to perform. Remember that ten one-minute sessions in a day will always trump one ten-minute session.


4. Your dog’s obedience behaviours are not generalized to varying conditions

If you teach Fluffy to “sit” in the quiet of your family room, that’s the only place she will reliably sit. It’s a mistake that many owners make; failing to generalize the new behaviour in different areas with varying conditions and levels of distraction will ensure spotty obedience at best.

To generalize a behaviour, first teach it at home with no distractions. Then, gradually increase distractions: turn the television on or have another person sit nearby. Once that’s perfected, move out into the yard. Then add another person or dog. Gradually move on to busier environments until Fluffy will perform consistently, even on the corner of a busy city street. Only then will the behaviour be “proofed.” This generalizing is especially vital when teaching the recall command, a behaviour that might one day save your dog’s life.


5. You rely too much on treats and not enough on praise, esteem, and celebrity

Treats are a great way to initiate a behaviour or to reinforce that behaviour intermittently later on. But liberal use of treats can often work against you. There can develop in the dog’s mind such a fixation on food that the desired behaviour itself becomes compromised and focus on the owner diffused. Think of it: you’ll rarely see hunting, agility, Frisbee, or law enforcement dogs being offered food rewards during training or job performance. Why? Because it would break focus and interfere with actual performance. Instead, other muses are found, including praise and, perhaps, brief play with a favourite toy. Most of all, reward for these dogs comes from the joy of the job itself.

By all means, initiate new behaviours with treats. But once Fido learns the behaviour, replace treats with praise, play, toy interludes, or whatever else he likes. Remember that unpredictable treat rewards work to sharpen a behaviour, while frequent, expected rewards slow performance and focus. Also, understand that you are a reward as well; you responding happily to something your dog has done will work better than a treat, and have the added effect of upping your “celebrity quotient.”


6. You use too much emotion

Excessive emotion can put the brakes on Fluffy’s ability to learn. Train with force, anger, or irritation and you’ll intimidate her and turn training sessions into inquisitions. Likewise, train with hyperbolic energy, piercing squeals of delight, and over-the-top displays of forced elation, and you will stoke her energy levels far beyond what is needed to focus and learn.

I tell students to adopt a sense of “calm indifference”—a demeanor suggesting competence, and a sense of easy authority. A laid-back, loving, mentoring kind of energy that calms a dog, and fills it with confidence. If your dog goofs up, instead of flying off the handle, back off, and try again. Likewise, if she gets something right, instead of erupting with shrill pomp, just calmly praise her, smile, then move on. She will gradually imprint on this relaxed attitude and reflect it.


7. You are reactive, not proactive

Dog training is a lot like the beautiful martial art of Tai Chi, with equal parts physical and philosophical. It takes timing, technique, and stamina, as well as a devotion to understanding the canine mind. It is not a skill that can be learned by watching one half-hour television show or from reading a few books. It takes time.

As a result, many dog owners have not yet mastered the timing and insight needed to train as capably as they might like. Like someone playing chess for the first time, they react to their opponent’s moves instead of planning their own.

When you simply react to Fido’s misbehaviours, you lose the opportunity to teach. Instead, practice your technique; anticipate his reactions ahead of time, becoming more proactive in the process. For example, if trying to quell a barking issue, instead of waiting for the barks to start, catch Fido right before his brain says “bark,” and distract it into some other, more acceptable, behaviour. Know that whatever stimulus is causing the barking needs to be either eliminated or redefined as a “good thing” in the dog’s head. This takes experience and a proactive role on your part.


8. You are inconsistent

Dogs need to feel that their mentors and providers are consistent in behaviour and in rule setting. If you vary training technique too much, especially in the beginning, you’ll diminish your dog’s ability to learn. For instance, if one day you stay patient with a stubborn dog, but the next day lose your cool, she won’t be able to predict how you’ll react at any given moment. This breaks confidence and trust. Instead, stick to a consistent methodology and be unswerving regarding what is suitable behaviour. For instance, if Fluffy isn’t allowed on the bed, but you let it happen two times out of ten, that’s inconsistent. Set rules and stick to them.


9. You lack confidence

Loss of confidence is a weakness, and I think that, as natural predators, dogs can sense it instinctively. It’s why frightened people get bitten more often than calmer individuals.

Show a lack of confidence and Fido will exploit it. That’s not a condemnation of your pet; it’s just a dog’s nature. To avoid this, simply work him more and attain some training successes. Attending a class with him can work wonders to increase your confidence, as can you spending time with other dogs. Try trading dogs with a friend every so often for the different experience. Take your dog into different venues, and push yourself and your dog to learn more. Practice!


10. You don’t train to the individual dog

Every dog has a distinct personality and behavioural profile. Though breed helps determine this, the individual dog’s character must be understood before training can succeed. As a trainer, you must determine what methods will work best with your dog.

For example, most retrievers are very sociable and can handle lots of people or dogs around them. But try this with a Chow Chow or Shiba Inu, and you may be in for a surprise. Likewise, a dog with a high food drive will respond to treats, while a dog with a low food drive may require a different muse. A shy dog will fare poorly with a robust training technique, whereas a swashbuckling dog might not even hear the gentle appeals coming from a trainer with a less hardy style. Think timid Toy Poodle versus rowdy Rottweiler.

If you have a shy dog, plan on showing a saint’s patience. Train peacefully, with little distractions at first. Train to the dog’s limitations, but plan to gradually sneak in social situations to desensitize and build confidence. If your dog is a big, bulldozing lummox, be just as big, just as hearty. Know that this dog can be challenged more than that timid dog. And know that, because of its size and strength, you simply must achieve control over it, especially in social situations. For dogs in between, reason out a training strategy based upon personality, size, age, energy, breed, and history.

If you stick to these basic guidelines, you’ll slowly redefine yourself as the resident trainer, and not just your dog’s concierge. Practice, succeed, be confident, and have fun with your protégé!

Author: Steve Duno